1.06 // Equestrian? Oui, s'il-vous plait!

Equestrian doesn’t necessarily have to mean horse poop and smelly clothes - it can mean smart jackets, white gloves, quirky hats and - of course - riding boots. That much has been made obvious the past few seasons, and has been well showcased in collections from Rag&Bone, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Moschino Cheap & Chic, and many more. The good news is, you don’t need to go out and spend hundreds to get the look - maybe drop a few $$ for the boots (if you don’t already have some - they’re a great staple for fall & spring), and if you want to go all-out and get a bona fide riding hat. Be my guest!

(Essentials for this look: white ruffles, black or brown leather, appropriate trousers [gray or black, usually], riding boots, subdued color palette - an all-around elegant and refined look).

Rag&Bone // Fall 2008

Carolina Herrera // Fall 2008

Moschino Cheap & Chic // Fall 2008

Oscar de la Renta // Resort 2009

Ralph Lauren // Spring 2008

Ralph Lauren // Spring 2009

…and it must be good, since it’s caught on so quickly! We’ve been seeing cropped pants paired with smart ankle and knee-high boots, and a veritible plethora of fitted blazers & jackets with very English-style cuts on the lapels and waist. Here, see for yourself:

see the pants + leather + blouse?

And a few inspirational photos:

…et maitenent, notre equipement du jour:

Bottega Veneta // Spring 2009 (doesn’t really fit in with the theme, but I love this look - and this is just the right shade of brurnt orange that I love!)

Asta la vista!

~ r

1.02 // Carolina Herrera & Burberry Prorsum

An interesting coincidence: Burberry Prorsum and Carolina Herrera both sported peasantlike looks in their Fall 2008 RTW shows. About that time, the US was beginning to look really grim economy-wise; mutterings of “recession” and even “depression” could be heard (still are, actually. But that’s another day… don’t get me started.)

They both managed to make serf look chic. Herrera’s crowning (haha) piece were the fedoras adorned with yard-long pheasant feathers, giving the outfits an air of a Robin Hood-esque hunter out to shoot a deer with her bow.

[all] Carolina Herrera // Fall 2008

…and could this possibly be her inspiration? (Note the hat).

Robin Hood: Men in Tights

Also note the use of tweeds, fur, and woodsy colours (brown, grey, greens) and how many of the fabrics aren’t super-shiny.

Burberry’s Fall ‘08 line had a much more rustic approach; the low, slouchy garden hats were just as worn and tattered-looking as many of the pieces in the line. (Disregard, of course, the multi-thousand-dollar jewels hanging off some of the models’ necks).

[all] Burberry Prorsum // Fall 2008

Both of these collections hail back to times past. Added, of course, are just the right twists to make it modern enough to wear in the streets - the huge necklaces Burberry added, or Herrera’s modernized materials and cuts for English hunting garb.

~ r

1.02 // Galliano & 18th-century England

John Galliano’s Spring 2009 line showcased bright colours, bonnet-like hats, and wigs hailing back to the 19th and 20th centuries, accompanied by heavy blush and lipstick. He also included bright red militaristic tunics and matching hats a la Royal Guard of England.

Guard at Winsdor Castle

Opening look at John Galliano // Spring 2009

Obviously where he drew his inspiration from. His other looks - the more vibrant portion of the show - seemed to be based strongly off of Victorian England, with the wigs and hats. (The clothes themselves, not so much - more like a garden, or something).

Digressing, the next few photos show 18th-century portraits - look at the hair & makeup.

…and the collection:

All, Galliano // Spring 2009

He also threw a few Victorian-esque hats in there as well:

Galliano // Spring 2009

It wasn’t just at Galliano, though; other designers have showcased the ages of England and Britain past, this season and previously.

Gareth Pugh // Spring 2009 : Victorian collar

Puffy Victorian sleeves at Catherine Malandrino // Fall 2008

Sportmax // Fall 2008 [model: Karlie Kloss. more on her later]

Jenny Packham // Fall 2008

So as you can see, it’s a growing trend - not too noticible, I’ll admit, but it’s there. I’m just itching to make myself a Victorian collar…

Martin Margiela had that huge collar going, somewhat reminiscent of the V. collar:

Martin Margiela // Fall 2008

Eh, not so much. But still.

Ok, wrapping it up avec notre equipement du jour:

Giles Deacon // Spring 2009

Auf wiedersehen,

~ r